Why climb one when you can climb two? The True North Alpine Climbing week pairs the best climbing route on Mount Baker with one of Mount Shuksan's classics. Together they make one unforgettable week of climbing. First we tackle the North Ridge of Mount Baker, then we pop back to town for pizza, beer and some quality sleep before packing up and heading back into the mountains to take on the North Face of Mount Shuksan.
The North Ridge of Mount Baker is a one-of-a-kind alpine ice classic. With massive relief, expansive glaciers, pitched ice climbing and incredible exposure this climb is simply exhilarating. In terms of pure fun, this climb ranks at the top of the list.
The North Ridge balances technical skill with endurance, and entails ascending over 5,500 feet of glacier, snow, rock and ice to the summit at 10,781’. An incredible challenge with equal rewards, this climb alone is a gem.
The North Face of Mount Shuksan is 3 more days of classic Cascade alpinism. We usually approach the North Face via the Fisher Chimneys, which offers fun climbing on exposed rock. Once above the Chimneys, we descend the White Salmon Glacier and climb back up to our camp near the base of the North Face. The next day we start early and climb many pitches of steep snow and glacial ice while enjoying views of Price Lake and the Mount Baker Wilderness before topping out on the Upper Curtis Glacier. From the Upper Curtis we have a multitude of options for gaining the summit, all involving 4th to low 5th class rock climbing.
Once we're on top we descend via the Sulphide Glacier and take Hell's Highway back to camp just above Winnies Slide. It's a long day and we set up camp, make dinner and head to bed early before our final day descending the Fisher Chimneys. The descent back to the trailhead involves down-climbing exposed 3rd and 4th class terrain before we hit the trail back to Artist Point.
Requisite Experience
This climb is demanding and is for experienced climbers with confidence that they can complete the North Ridge of Baker and either the North Face or Fisher Chimneys Route on Mount Shuksan. You should have experience on similarly demanding climbs. Climbers attempting these routes should have experience with technical rock and vertical ice climbing. Both climbs are challenging and committing and require climbers to move efficiently on steep terrain. If you are unsure of whether you have the experience or fitness for this undertaking . We’ll help you pick a climb that is perfect for your level of experience or set you up with the training you need to accomplish this climb.
